What time do Italians eat dinner?

Between 8 and 10pm, with most locals sitting down around 8:30 — later the further south you go. A restaurant that opens at 7:30 will be empty at 7:45 and full at 9. Eating at 6:30 is possible only in places that exist for tourists, which tells you something about the food. Adjust by adding aperitivo around 6:30 to bridge the gap: a drink and snacks, which is exactly what the hours are designed for. Lunch is the other fixed point, roughly 1 to 2:30, and it's often the better meal of the day.